"Arabia is beguilingly unique, and Oman is the epitome of this. The scent of frankincense and rosewater in the air. The cloudless skies. The sugar-high you get from Qahwa, a sweet cardamom-infused coffee served everywhere you go. From carving up sand dunes in Wahiba Sands to high heels and hedonism in Muscat, there’s something to suit all travellers. And now, with the opening of Alila Jabal Akhdar in the Al Hajar mountains, the heartlands are also opening up to nature-lovers. It’s here you’ll find the real Oman: crumbling hill villages, sand-encrusted fortresses and vast echoing canyons dotted with juniper trees. In spring, terraces of roses burst into bloom painting whole valleys a splendid shade of pink. The souq at Nizwa (the former capital of Oman) is one of the liveliest in Arabia. I love to browse the stalls laden with antique khanjars (curved daggers), copper tureens and bags of frankincense for exotic gifts to take home – but really what I’m taking with me is the gentle warmth of the Omani people."