Lost in navigation

Words by Hannah Lemon

9 min read

By land, by sea, the tropics of Indonesia demand to be explored. The changing landscape across the islands has created distinctive dens for reptiles and mammals that need to be seen to be believed.

Stories for... The Heart

Learning to navigate these droplets of land allows us the rare view of seeing creatures in their natural habitat.

Bali has built such an iconic legacy for tropical relaxation that its reputation precedes that of Indonesia itself. But to focus only on Bali is to disregard more than 18,100 vibrant and varied islands within the archipelagic state. Some of the larger landmasses have human civilisation rubbing shoulders with the tropical depths of the jungle.

Other smaller isolated islets have become hiding places for delicate sand crabs and washed-up pieces of driftwood. Learning to navigate these droplets of land allows us the rare view of seeing creatures in their natural habitat, from ribbons of bats that adorn the sky, to giant land reptiles that are continuing a prehistoric legacy.

Spiritual

silence

In the north of Bali, roads zig-zag past boutiques selling handcrafted bamboo lamps, smooth teak tables and rows of delicate pottery. Then, out of nowhere, the Ubud jungle merges with the bustling high-street offering respite and relaxation when you need it, particularly after a long flight. Lizards skitter up trees, palm-sized butterflies float up to the sky and scarlet-headed flowerpeckers do as their name suggests.

It’s no wonder the Hindu culture here has a deep reverence for nature; it is entirely inseparable from human existence. Uniting the body with these elements can be done with a deeply spiritual holy water blessing by a local priest at the 11th century temple, Pura Mengening. Afterwards, celebrations are brought to a head with a ‘babi guling’, or suckling pig, at the home of Bapak Enong Ismail, a local museum curator. Locals and visitors alike tuck into this rich Balinese meal filling the air with turmeric, coriander, lemongrass and shared laughter.

Where to stay: Just 10 minutes from downtown Ubud, Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve embodies the spirit of the area completely. Hidden in a cocoon of giant leaves and tall palms, the spa absorbs the quiet lull of the Ayung River and the suites back onto mesmerising views of surrounding rice paddy layers, which are stacked up like delicate slices of green cake.

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

The land

that time forgot

Walking into the protected Komodo National Park is like walking into the Jurassic era. The island is hilly and desolate; the ground parched and sandy. Branches and leaves are interwoven and, up close, everything is a mottled brown-grey. This is the terrain for spotting the world’s largest, and endangered, monitor lizard, the Varanus komodoensis, more fondly known as the Komodo dragon.

These three-metre beasts are our last link to the dinosaurs, and it certainly feels that way with their slow, menacing movements and slithering tongue. Spotting them in the undergrowth on a bespoke trek is no easy feat, but is made even more life-affirming when you do. Even more so when your personal guide says they reach speeds of 20km per hour to kill their prey.

Where to stay: Navigating the Komodo islands is something the Vela does as part of its Golden Coral Triangle route, and the crew onboard this luxury yacht know every inch of these waters. That means more private islands to see, perfect for a romantic picnic or a family castaway. With nothing but blue expanse and each other, it’s like stepping into a your own dream world.

Flower of

the sea

A short flight to Flores changes the landscape from lush, leafy jungle to turquoise waters. The best way to see the island is aboard a boat. The surrounding marine protected areas make this the most remarkable place to snorkel in Indonesia, with coral that’s vividly alive. Fluorescent yellow anemones and watermelon pink sponges carpet the rocks. Schools of multicoloured fish flit between legs and through rocks, while spotting turtles becomes child’s play.

Looking above the water is equally mesmerising; you might catch glimpses of glistening grey dolphins feeding on fish or whales moving along their migration route. Gazing up at night brings its own surprises too. Every evening, a migration of fruit bats make the daily journey from water-logged mangroves to Flores, filling the sky with thick splatters of silhouettes. Sitting in the dark, senses heightened, it’s hard not to appreciate the majesty of nature’s magic pattern.

Where to stay: The elegance of old-world sailing is best experienced aboard the Vela. Impressive canvas sails billow in the wind on this luxury yacht that sleeps 12, making everyone onboard feel like an intrepid explorer – but with bountiful luxuries to hand. Expert diving explorers, wellness therapists and interiors finished in Hermès fabrics and custom local teak furniture make sailing the seas simply celestial.

Calm

waters

From teeming underwater worlds to the dinosaur’s distant relative, Indonesia’s landscape leaves a lot to ponder. To take it all in, the quiet shores of south Bali offer up a slice of tranquillity before the return home.

Jimbaran Bay, once a fishing village, has opened up this impressive 4km-long sliver of sand to those looking to share in paradise. It’s almost impossible not to curl your toes in the sand or stare out at the ocean’s infinite abyss. But for those saving resting for the journey home, boarding a helicopter to Mount Ijen on East Java gives you a chance to see this famous volcano’s acidic turquoise crater from great heights. Hypnotic hues of sulphuric gases and sun rays hit differently at 3,000 metres. On the way back, a sumptuous feast is served under the bamboo roof of the beach club at Menjangan Dynasty on West Bali – a secluded secret. Sink into a herb-filled national nasi goreng rice dish in unadulterated privacy.

Where to stay: In the west corner of Jimbaran Beach sits Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. Visitors here are encouraged to return with sensory memories, rather than souvenirs. Authentic arts experiences, breezy villas and Balinese cooking classes with vegetables straight from the garden bring a deeper understanding of the area’s inimitable cultural scene and traditional customs.

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay