
Grazing the clouds at the pinnacle of Tokyo’s snappy Midtown Yaesu tower is a sanctuary where the blueprints of la dolce vita have had a South Asian makeover.
Shaded by a forest garden reflecting the ebb and flow of the ever-changing seasons, this hilltop haven stands in homage to its roots, while introducing a contemporaneity not often found in a traditional Ryokan. Once the site of a Yakuoin Temple – dedicated to the study of Buddhism and herbal medicine – its healing arts are now housed across three libraries and practiced in the serenity of Spa Entei.
Consider the hotel’s namesake, and a harmonious blend of local history and Chinese philosophy should transport guests back in time, yet such ancient principles have the opposite effect. Retold as ‘richness in emptiness’, Zhuangzi’s ‘Mukayu’ manifests here as more than its pared-back aesthetic, acting as an undercurrent to encourage peace of mind. Though in so remedial a setting, it’s the private hot spring baths that promote placidity most.
A futuristic find among a forest of red pine, maple and camellia, admire this Yakushiyama hillside between a blanket of soft moss, and the blossoms of its ancient mountain cherry tree. Come springtime, its petals dance on air much like the gentle flurry of first winter snows,
yet such scenery is nothing short of a spectacle year-round. Presiding over the onsen town of Yamashiro and its 1300-year-old source, take in these tranquil gardens from a soothing seat in the thermal baths.
The destination for reflection and rejuvenation, expect an elevated onsen experience where excess is non-existent. You’ll want for nothing, though the service won’t be at all overbearing, in a style matching the interior design to give guests space to unwind. Time spent in the spa only adds to the allure, making wellness pursuits all too easy in a choice of signature treatments, reflexology, and other massage techniques.
Among a wealth of written knowledge, one of three libraries showcases the school of thought behind Beniya Mukayu through the medium of contemporary art. Replacement of Zero by artist Tatsuo Miyajima and architect SeyTakeyama exhibits a fascinating collection of works around the concept of ‘nothingness’ to peruse, supported by academic publications on philosophy, mathematics and design.
Perhaps unconventionally, locally sourced, seasonal cuisine at Beniya Mukayu isn’t served in-suite. Instead, their renowned kaiseki-style dishes are enjoyed in restaurant Horin, meaning ‘together’. The only exception to the rule is given by owners Mr and Mrs Nakamichi, who personally extend an invitation to their exclusive modern tea ceremony. Performed in the peaceful ambience of the main library, this is a valuable window to Japanese culture.
Grazing the clouds at the pinnacle of Tokyo’s snappy Midtown Yaesu tower is a sanctuary where the blueprints of la dolce vita have had a South Asian makeover.
Surrounded by the striking shades of Nikko National Park, western comforts meet Japanese traditions in a rural escape between the mighty Mount Natai and the glistening waters of Lake Chuzenji.
Greeting guests with its 18th-century Kajiimiya Gate, this reimagining from Mitsui elevates a centuries-old residence opposite Nijo Castle; where rooms designed by a world-renowned cast of creatives embrace a tranquil garden in tune with all seasons.